And now for the amazing… Kansai Yamamoto

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On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28.
Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.

… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

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Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.

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Romantic Summer

gina fratini

Miss Fortnum swings into a romantic summer with Gina Fratini’s Impressionist prints. Rust midi dress, £37.50. Grey-blue medieval gown, £49.

Illustrated by David Wolfe

Scanned from Vogue, May 1971.


Julie Christie in Fortuny

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Apricot pleated tunic with green sleeves and cross-gartered leggings. All around, some of Fortuny’s wealth of hand-blocked velvets.

Fortuny dresses have always been collected by women who are beauties and/or intellectuals: Eleanora Duse, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, The Marchesa Casati Stampa, Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, Marie-Laure de Noailles, Mrs Gloria Cooper Vanderbilt, Anjelica Huston, Monica Vitti, and now Julie Christie, who bought Fortuny’s pink and silver dress with pleated silk side and glass buttons at a recent auction at Christie’s. Here Julie Christie borrows Fortunys from another collector, Mrs Liselotte Hohs Manera, Austrian painter and ceramist, who is married to an Italian lawyer, and one that belong to Eleanora Duse from Vern Lambert’s collection. Castaldi took the photographs in Venice, where Mariano and Henriette Fortuny lived and worked in the Palazzo Pesaro, which is now the Fortuny Museum, and where Julie Christie has been making the film Don’t Look Now, directed by Nicholas Roeg. She’ll next be seen in Uncle Vanya, on Broadway, an extraordinary production to be directed by Mike Nichols with George C. Scott an Nicol Williamson.

Photographed by Castaldi.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1973.

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Antique violet tunic and skirt pleated like a mushroom: inspired by a visit to Delphi, Mariano Fortuny and his wife, Henriette, created the fabric: Isadora Duncan was the first customer.

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Eleanora Duse’s black velvet dress printed in silver with pleated silk side panels.

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Fortuny’s velvet cloak over a pleated dress of terracotta by St Mark’s and the Doge’s Palace where it must hav swept many times before.


April Flower Evenings

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Primrose silk georgette camisole top and handpainted satin jacket by Bellville-Sassoon.

Delicate flower evening dresses, in silks and chiffons… Beauty far beyond the English flower garden…

Photographed by Toscani. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1975.

April Flower Evenings 1

Honey coloured silk dress by John Bates. Sandals by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

April Flower Evenings 2

Silk chiffon by Zandra Rhodes. Pink sandals by Rayne.

April Flower Evenings 5

Banana silk georgette printed with apricot flowers by Yuki.

April Flower Evenings 4

Pale peach silk chiffon with sheer sleeves by Thea Porter.

April Flower Evenings 3

Snow orchid chiffon by Sue & Helen. White sandals by Rayne.

April Flower Evenings 7

Drift of frilled white silk organza printed with snowdrops by Gina Fratini. Sandals by Rayne.

April Flower Evenings 8

Blackberry printed organza by Gina Fratini.

April Flower Evenings 9

Cream lace jacket and skirt by Bill Gibb.

April Flower Evenings 10

Palest pink silk chiffon by Bill Gibb.


First Essentials

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Lace and satin nightdress, turquoise and white, by Janet Reger. Mules by Midas.

Photographed by Eric Boman at The Savoy.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1977.

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Silk crepe de chine wrap by Richard Hamnett at Tuttabankem White bra and French knickers by Silhouette at Dickins and Jones. Plastic and marabou shoes by Rayne.

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White layered waist slip by Janet Reger. Clear plastic mules by Midas.

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Briefest white bra and white nyloon very briefs, both by Triumph. Clear plastic mules by Midas.


Go To Blazers

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Heavy red cotton blazer, red bows on white voile shirt, blue check shorts, all by Electric Fittings.

Five looks gone to blazers here, five separate ways to be wearing them all summer through – with baggy Oxford bags, check shorts, short trousers, pleated skirts. Other best things to go with blazers are fake flowers, cloche hats, shady straws, veiling, hair nets, print shirts, a bevy of built up shoes. Go get a blazer.

Photographed by David Montgomery. Modelled by Gala Mitchell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, May 1971

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Long double breasted white cotton brocade blazer, fuchsia velvet cloche, petrol green crepe pleated skirt, all at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

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Navy denim blazer, navy, ivory and scarlet plaid seersucker bags, white polka dot scarlet acrylic shirt, all at Bus Stop.

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Navy denim blazer pin striped extra fine, white with navy stripe trousers, both by Alistair Cowin.

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Champagne satin blazer in bow print, blue print Chinese alphabet short dungarees, both by Electric Fittings. Sandals and tomato tights at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.


Smoke

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The look created by Gil, Max Factor’s magician, was inspired by a dress called Smoke by Gerard Pipart for Nina Ricci. A sinuous wisp of gunmetal satin, a series of bias cut panels sweeping to the floor. The nightshade eyes, shining, heavy lidded in a face pale as moonglow, and startled by a rich, dark mouth.

Modeled by Ingrid Boulting

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, September 1970.