Not only does leather feel good, it smells delicious, like a trip out West. Suede and chamois are even better than leather because they are so much softer and easier tow ear. They’re not as expensive as they used to be. Cheap they will never be if you want value for your money. Leather, properly looked after, lasts for age; in fact, the more beaten up and old it looks the better. So when it comes to buying remember that and invest in something safe – like the clothes photographed on these pages. Thy are not desperately in fashion but, on the other hand, they are not out and never will be…
Fashion by Caroline Baker. Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Purple satin blouse by Ann Reeves. Green satin jacket and matching green satin Oxford bags both by Sheridan Barnett for Copper Coin. Belt from Bus Stop. Rainbow brooch by Cash Graphics.
The original St Laurent satin blazer would cost you around £50, but otherwise they are available from about £10 and probably only you will know the difference. The best ones are from Bus Stop… very Joan Crawford, complete with ‘Forties’ shoulder pads. One thing’s for sure… you must have at least one in your wardrobe. They look particularly good worn over jeans and T-shirts, but if you want to look smart, wear them with matching trousers, a skirt, or over a printed dress.
Dreamy editorial which uses the brand spanking new Hard Rock Cafe on Park Lane in London as its backdrop.
Opened on 14th June 1971, by Isaac Tigrett and Peter Morton, its original decor was less memorabilia, more American-diner-transported-to-London. Sensing a gap in the market for musicians playing in London but unable to get a decent burger etc, within a decade they were expanding into the international chain it is now. The original is the only one I’ve ever visited, and it maintains a lot of its authentic charm – as long as you avoid the busy times. Oh how I wish I could time travel back to this era though.
This isn’t the first HRC-based photoshoot I have scanned, and I’m sure it won’t be the last. Its authentic-feeling interiors, much like Brighton’s seafront, seemed to lure photographers and models like moths to a flame.
Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, September 1971.
Crepe shirt by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Jade green satin blazer with black check (has matching pleated skirt not shown) from Mr Freedom. Panda brooch from Susan Marsh, Chelsea Antique Market.
Blue denim hat by Titfers. Yellow satin blouse by Jeff Banks. Green satin jacket with red buttons by Sheridan Barnett for Copper Coin. Elvis brooch by Cash Graphics. Parrot brooch from a selection at Hope and Eleanor.
Long sleeved white satin blouse with bow at neck by Ann Reeves. Single breasted red and white striped blazer by Angela at London Town. Sunglasses from Biba. Hand brooch from Hope and Eleanor.
Blue and red printed rayon crepe dress and blue satin blazer with red buttons, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop.
Black rayon shirt with floral print and tie belt. Black satin double breasted blazer with self buttons and padded shoulders, both by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Aeroplane brooch from Cash Graphics.
Red and white spotted cotton button through dress by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Royal blue satin blazer from Crowthers.
Red cotton hat from Titfers. Long sleeved white rayon blouse with sail boat print by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Double breasted blue satin blazer with red buttons by Sheridan Barnett for Copper Coin. Sunglasses from Biba.
White dress with music and rose print by Miss Mouse. Snakeskin shoes from Bilbo. Red and white spotted dress with white trimming by Miss Mouse.
Photographed in Singapore by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1975.
Black and green floral print halterneck dress from Biba. Black and gold shoes by Sex. Green floral halterneck dress by Biba. Black and gold brocade shoes by Biba.
Shocking pink pintucked cotton dress by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black snakeskin shoes by Bilbo. Red cotton sack dress with hip pockets by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Red suede and snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland.
Dusty pink sun dress with black piping by Strawberry Studio. Grey suede shoes by Terry de Havilland.
Blue cotton dress with Dorchester motif. Coffee dress with Savoy motif, both by Jeff Banks.
White cotton culotte dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose, Chelsea Antique Market. White cotton sun dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose.
Navy cotton sundress with cross over straps by Gordon King.
Long silver, gold and blue taffeta dress with huge puff sleeves nd ruched bodice, £22. Blue leather court shoes on high platforms and very high heels, £7.45. Blue shot lurex chiffon scarf, 20p. All from Biba.
Unwrapping Christmas presents can cause thrills of excitement or groans of despair but, whatever you find inside, the sense of occasion is always there. We’ve proved our sense of occasion by wrapping up the best Christmas clothes for your parties; showing off the lovely, sexy, lurex, satins and natty netting you’ll be adorning yourself with this party season. Glamour and glitter are here to stay, so wrap yourself up in our Christmas wrapping and you’ll be the best Christmas present anyone’s had this year!
I can only hope in vain that I will find boxes of Biba and Miss Mouse under my Christmas tree, but still it’s a nice fantasy to have! As always, a deliciously quirky concept by Mr Peccinotti and 19’s usual flawless taste in clothes…
Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, December 1972.
LEFT: Black satin elasticated tube sweater, covered in stretch netting, £7. Matching black skirt with silver braid and silver spots, £10-50. Both by Miss Mouse. Green tights, from Biba, 30p. Black suede shoes with silver snake-skin trim on heel and toe, from Derber, £13-99. Lurex shot chiffon scarf, 20p. Tiny fake diamond rings, 5p. each. Both from Biba. Green glass bead bracelet, by Paul Stephens, 25p. RIGHT: Black satin heart-shaped strapless top, with gold and silver spots in lurex. Matching Oxford bags. Both by Miss Mouse, £20 the set. Silver shoes with very high heels, by Zapata, £15.75. Red shot lurex scarf, 20p. Red stud ear- rings with gold flecks, 20p. Matching bracelets, £1.20 each. All from Biba.
Black jersey dress with silver lurex spotted top and inset pleats has long sleeves, by Gillian Richard, £8.20. Silver lurex tights, by Mary Ouant. £1-50. Black suede shoes with silver snake-skin print, from Derber, £13.99. Diamante choker, by Paul Stephens, 40p. Black wool halter-neck top spotted with silver lurex and with silver straps, by Erica Budd, £3.60. Black satin ankle-length skirt, from Bus Stop, £5.95. Silver lurex tights, by Mary Quant, £1.50. Silver metallic leather shoes, from Ravel, £10-50. Long silver lurex gloves, by Morley, £2.15. Diamante choker, by Paul Stephens, 40p. Diamante heart earrings, from Biba, £1.15.
LEFT: Silver and grey knitted lurex long-sleeved polo-neck sweater, £3.50. Silver lurex cardigan with grey rose and two pockets, £9.95. Both from Bus Stop. Long grey satin skirt, by Walter Albini from Browns, £6.30. Tights by Mary Quant. £1.50. Platform sandals. from Ravel, £10.50. Bracelets. from Fenwick, 90p. each. Diamante and pearl-drop earrings, by Paul Stephens, £1.20. RIGHT: Long silver lurex halter-neck dress with silver and black lurex wavy trim on heart-shaped neck and side pleat inset. by Gillian Richard. £9.50. Matching cardigan with wavy-trim pockets. by Richard Green. £6.80. Silver lurex tights, by Mary Quant. £1.50. Silver metallic leather shoes. with platform soles and peep-toes, from Ravel, £10.50. Diamante drop earrings. by Paul Stephens. £1.10. Silver and black halter-neck lurex top, which buttons at front of waist, £5. Matching ankle-length wavy-print skirt, £8.60. Both by Richard Green. Black suede shoes with snakeskin print, from Derber, £1399. Long black satin gloves, by F. G. Shave, £2.75. Diamante bracelets. £1 each. Drop earrings. £1. Both by Paul Stephens.
Green, gold and black lurex georgette shirt with long dolman sleeves and trimmed in black satin on v-neck and cuffs, £11. Long black satin skirt, £9.50. Both from Universal Witness. Green tights, from Biba, 30p. Silver court shoes with very high heel, and ankle strap, by Zapata, £15.75. Black and silver necklace. £2.90. Diamante stud earrings, £1. Both by Paul Stephens.
Black and silver fine-striped lurex halter-neck sweater, with matching striped cardigan, by McCaul, £8 the set. Black satin trousers with turn-ups and high waist, by Richard Green, £7.70. Silver tights, by Mary Quant, £1.50. Black suede shoes with silver and red ‘snakeskin’ print and silver ankle-straps, by Leicester Shoes. £15.95. Thin diamante belt. £7.50. Single row diamante bracelet, £1. Both by Paul Stephens. Dangling diamante earrings. from Biba, 60p.
Cream crepe shirt with long puff sleeves, £4.50. Matching tunic with green satin piping on short sleeves and green, yellow and cream sequin motif, £1850. Green satin trousers, £10. All by Quorum. Gold leather shoes with gold snakeskin print, from Derber, £13.99. Green lurex bow tie to make from remnants.
White lawn dress printed with butterflies and flowers by Thea Porter. Straw hat by Buckle Under. Red wedge shoes by Kurt Geiger. Belt by Shape.
There’s a good reason why Vanity Fair is possibly my favourite magazine of this period. They were relatively conventional in the 1960s, and would ‘merge’ with Honey magazine around 1972, but in their death knells they were just about the most innovative magazine in the UK. Issues were often themed around ‘issues’, for example this one is entirely themed around break-ups and divorces (including a story on what a divorced man should wear when taking his kid out for the day).
Nor did they shy away from more expensive designer names, such as Thea Porter and Zandra Rhodes here, mixing them happily with the more affordable but still iconic boutique names like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom. Adding Foale and Tuffin, Pablo and Delia and Terry de Havilland into the mix for good measure, and all those stunning illustrations by Michael Foreman… this is one of my favourite editorials of all time.
Vanity Fair is also, frankly, a nightmare to scan because it falls apart at the binding with the lightest touch, which is why I don’t scan them as often. So enjoy the heaven of Harri Peccinotti’s work while I gently shuffle all the pages back into the magazine…
Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
Illustrations by Michael Foreman.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, April 1971.
Long grey crepe dress patterned with purple, green and red birds by Shape. Pablo and Delia suede thong necklace. Blue suede shoes at Sacha.
Beige suede skirt with applique shapes and matching shawl by Mary Quant. Necklace from Buckle Under. Beige suede boots by Guy Humphries.
Blue and white feather printed chiffon dress by Zandra Rhodes.
Left to right: Chiffon blouse and multi-coloured skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Painted rainbow shoes from Mr Freedom. Painted belt by Shape. // Cream and red jersey catsuit (top only showing) and banded red and cream skirt both from Stirling Cooper. Red shoes by Kurt Geiger. // Cream, yellow and red jersey dress by Stirling Cooper. Pull on hat by Janice Peskett. // Red cotton t-shirt by Erica Budd. Cream dungarees from Stirling Cooper. Red python sandals at Elliotts.
Above: Mauve satin cotton pinafore dress and blouse by Gladrags. Right: Bottom half of Alistair Cowin calico trousers with green printing. Green and yellow shoes by Terry de Havilland. Far right: Black velvet dungarees with white satin applique heart from Mr Freedom. Chiffon blouse from Foale and Tuffin. Mauve canvas boots at Charles Jourdan.
Left to right: White crepe bolero and trousers by Gina Fratini. White shoes by Kurt Geiger / Satin trousers and matching chiffon top in print by Celia Birtwell, both by Ossie Clark at Quorum. Red leather shoes by Chrystal of Copenhagen. / Black silk organza shirt and trousers in Bianchini’s black silk organza flocked with velvet, both from Thea Porter. Cord belt from Piero de Monzi. Wide jewelled belt and double chain and green stone belt from Ken Lane. Black satin shoes by Kirt Geiger. / Black cire trouser suit from The Fulham Road Clothes Shop. Black leather boots by The Chelsea Cobbler. Black and cream silk scarf from Thea Porter
Everyone is tired of hearing that the mini skirt is on the way out. Nearly as tired as when they heard it was on the way in. These things in fashion die a very slow death, but in this case one reason has been the lack of alternative. Designers made too great a leap with the maxi, and too indefinite a move with the midi. After extremely short skirts, something flapping around mid calves did feel extremely frumpish. This was tied in with the fact that no boot manufacturers at that time were making them with high enough heels, essential with a longer skirt, and it was very difficult to find feminine unclumpy shoes which gave enough of a lift. Now footwear is changing. Boots are tall and beautifully fitting. l-ligh-heeled shoes — very high — are pretty, well proportioned and extremely flattering. And so one branch of fashion may well be influencing another. ln the end everything is a matter of proportions. When skirts went up, heels came down. The high stilettos we used to hobble around in so painfully, not really that long ago, looked far too tarty with hemlines halfway up the thigh and even worse with trousers, especially tight ones. Since most women feel their legs to be too short, and the wearing of the heel as very necessary to a feeling of femininity, this cancelled out the wearing of trousers for a very large number. Until a short time ago trousers were being worn by,. apart from men of course, women who looked like men — that is, girls with no curves. Lean hips. Long legs — in flat shoes. Now for the first time comes the alternative to the mini skirt. Trousers. That is, until hemlines decide exactly how far they will drop. As drop they will. Footwear has helped provide the solution. It will comfort many to know that the models in the pictures which follow, averaging 32″-35″ hips, still have to choose, very carefully, shapes which suit them. Their legs are long but still need the added inches that a high heel gives them. Their shapes are slim, but female. Still sometimes round enough to need the camouflage of a long jacket, cardigan or tunic. They show that closely fitting trousers can be sexier and will also make you look fatter. They show that a small waist is made smaller by a high cut rather than a hipster style. Most of the trousers for evening lit well over the hips but flare out in a very feminine, flattering way. They are glittery, shiny, and see-through. Beautiful in fact; better than ever before.
Alas, now that mini skirts are accepted just about everywhere. we have to warn that trousers, for women that is, aren’t. An appalling number of top London hotels still hold fast to outdated rules about them. Officially they are not allowed in, even to drink, let alone to dine or to have lunch. ln the Dorchester they can’t even have tea! In the Mirabelle: Ofhcially, trousers are not admitted. The question does not arise much at lunch—tirne as there are never very many women there. ln the evening the rule has now been relaxed and you would be permitted to dine in trousers. Talk of the Town: Certainly you may wear trousers. Savoy: They now allow very dressy evening trousers in public rooms but no daytime trousers at all. Wearing them to private functions in private rooms is left to the discretion of the organisers. Dorchester: You would not be served anything when wearing a trouser suit. This applies to all public rooms, but for banquets and other private functions it is up to the organisers. Connaught: Officially not allowed at any time in the bar or restaurant, but it is a decision left to the manager. Carlton Tower: Trousers are not encouraged in the Rib or Chelsea Rooms, but they are coming to accept them. They prefer lunch-time trousers to evening ones. Westbury: Trousers are not allowed in the bar or restaurant; this applies to evenings too. However, this rule, like others, is relaxed from time to time, eg, when Brigitte Bardot arrives in trousers from the airport – or Lord Snowdon arrives for dinner in a roll-neck shirt. Hilton: Officially no trouser suits in the Roof Restaurant. Unofficially you could get away with it if it’s a very beautiful catsuit or something similar. At private functions it depends on the organisers. Ritz: No rule for the daytime, it just depends on the trousers! Usually it is permitted to wear trousers in the evening, but again it depends . . . Claridge’s: Very strict, definitely no trouser suits in the public rooms, though they say you can wear what you like in private! Crockford’s: They don’t object to them at all. Coq d’Or: They much prefer to see a lady dressed as a lady. During the day they prefer skirts but don’t object to trousers in the evening at all. White Tower: lf the woman looks elegant and well-dressed she is let in, otherwise she may be told that the restaurant is full. Brown’s: No objections at all for either day or evening in either restaurant or bar provided the wearer looks neat and tidy. Les Ambassadeurs: Don’t mind couture—cut or evening trouser suits, but don’t like anything untidy like blue jeans. Caprice: Quote from the reservations man: ‘l am sure we can have no objections. women eat here in trousers all the time’
Words by Molly Parkin. Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.
The eagle-eyed among you may have spotted the Ossie Clark ensemble which won Dress of the Year in 1969. For an item which won such a prestigious award, it’s always amazed me that I haven’t seen more contemporary images of it. I suppose it’s quite ‘out there’, even by late Sixties standards, but thankfully Molly Parkin was always pretty way out there.
If you can make your way through all the text, it’s a pretty impressive and important insight into the attitudes towards women in trousers in late Sixties Britain. It’s easy to forget how scandalous it could be, even in 1969 – a good four years after we first saw Emma Peel in John Bates’s trouser suit designs in The Avengers, for a woman to wear trousers. People obviously did it, you see enough fashion spreads to know that, but the list of swanky hotels and restaurants who still would refuse entry and service to a woman in trousers is quite extraordinary.
Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers Bazaar, April 1969.
Left to right: White voile peasant shirt and wide pink, blue and turquoise brocade belt with gilt buckle, both from Thea Porter. Trousers in shell pink silk chiffon with sequins by Gina Fratini / Cyclamen silk shirt with full extravagant sleeves and purple trousers in Warner’s silk damask furnishing fabric, both by Thea Porter/ Brocade belt with gilt buckle by Swordtex from a selection at Mr Fish. / Gipsy bolero in silk brocade and cream organdy trousers, both from Thea Porter. Long orange and yellow scarf wound around waist from Flora Boutique. Chain belt studded with flowers from Browns. More jewelled belts and chains from a selection at Ken Lane.