Happily Ever After

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White lawn dress printed with butterflies and flowers by Thea Porter. Straw hat by Buckle Under. Red wedge shoes by Kurt Geiger. Belt by Shape.

There’s a good reason why Vanity Fair is possibly my favourite magazine of this period. They were relatively conventional in the 1960s, and would ‘merge’ with Honey magazine around 1972, but in their death knells they were just about the most innovative magazine in the UK. Issues were often themed around ‘issues’, for example this one is entirely themed around break-ups and divorces (including a story on what a divorced man should wear when taking his kid out for the day).

Nor did they shy away from more expensive designer names, such as Thea Porter and Zandra Rhodes here, mixing them happily with the more affordable but still iconic boutique names like Stirling Cooper and Mr Freedom. Adding Foale and Tuffin, Pablo and Delia and Terry de Havilland into the mix for good measure, and all those stunning illustrations by Michael Foreman… this is one of my favourite editorials of all time.

Vanity Fair is also, frankly, a nightmare to scan because it falls apart at the binding with the lightest touch, which is why I don’t scan them as often. So enjoy the heaven of Harri Peccinotti’s work while I gently shuffle all the pages back into the magazine…

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Illustrations by Michael Foreman.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, April 1971.

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Long grey crepe dress patterned with purple, green and red birds by Shape. Pablo and Delia suede thong necklace. Blue suede shoes at Sacha.

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Beige suede skirt with applique shapes and matching shawl by Mary Quant. Necklace from Buckle Under. Beige suede boots by Guy Humphries.

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Blue and white feather printed chiffon dress by Zandra Rhodes.

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Left to right: Chiffon blouse and multi-coloured skirt by Foale and Tuffin. Painted rainbow shoes from Mr Freedom. Painted belt by Shape. // Cream and red jersey catsuit (top only showing) and banded red and cream skirt both from Stirling Cooper. Red shoes by Kurt Geiger. // Cream, yellow and red jersey dress by Stirling Cooper. Pull on hat by Janice Peskett. // Red cotton t-shirt by Erica Budd. Cream dungarees from Stirling Cooper. Red python sandals at Elliotts.

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Above: Mauve satin cotton pinafore dress and blouse by Gladrags. Right: Bottom half of Alistair Cowin calico trousers with green printing. Green and yellow shoes by Terry de Havilland. Far right: Black velvet dungarees with white satin applique heart from Mr Freedom. Chiffon blouse from Foale and Tuffin. Mauve canvas boots at Charles Jourdan.


Kind of Casual

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Hat by Bermona. Check coat with high collar and raised shoulders by Stirling Cooper. Black crepe skirt from Biba. Pin from Susan Marsh at Chelsea Antiques Market.

Photographed by Maude.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, October 1972.


The Grand Affair

Grand affairs call for grand clothes, and provide a welcome opportunity to get out of our peasant blouses and jeans and dress accordingly. The nicest thing about fashion at the moment is that everyone is so confused as to what they should be wearing, that you can wear exactly what you like. We opt for the romantic Garbo fashion, tarted up in the ’71 style, because girls are beginning to look like girls again and, although we sympathise with Women’s Lib., we don’t believe you have to look like a fella to get equal rights!

Possibly the most perfect encapsulation of the Seventies-does-Thirties aesthetic, this homage to Art Deco features some of the most lust-worthy clothes from my favourite designers and boutiques. Including Biba, Ossie Clark and some rare Antony Price for Stirling Cooper!

Photographed in the home of interior designer Graeme Gibson rather than in a studio, the authenticity is heightened by the location and the props, and then finished with the sweet illustrated photoframes.

Photographed by David Tack.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, January 1971.

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Crepe dress by Antony Price for Stirling Cooper. T-strap shoes from Sacha.


Inspirational Editorials: Short and Shaggy

Chunky fake fox Borg jacket with orange satin lining and shiny satin trousers both from Wallis Shops. Feather embossed crepe de chine shirt by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Dog brooch by Corocraft. Rings by Adrien Mann. Flocked peaches and cherries both by Adrien Mann.

Chunky fake fox Borg jacket with orange satin lining and shiny satin trousers both from Wallis Shops. Feather embossed crepe de chine shirt by Ronnie Stirling at Stirling Cooper. Dog brooch by Corocraft. Rings by Adrien Mann. Flocked peaches and cherries both by Adrien Mann.

Add a bit of extravagance to your life with freaky shaggy jackets in flamboyant fur fabrics — everything from bold plaids and curly poodle wools to mock animal prints. Dress up everyday skirts and trousers with short boxy boleros and bottom-skimming jackets with wide 40s shoulders. Best of all, go vampy with shiny satin trousers or shorts and add a final sparkling touch of diamante.

Photographed by Brian Downes.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey, November 1971

Long haired brown Acrylic jacket with plain straight from by Gordon King. Scarlet satin trousers from Wallis Shops. Black and white orchid print blouse by John Craig. Diamante comb by Adrien Mann. Musical note brooch and doggy brooch by Corocraft. Other jewellery by Bus Stop.

Long haired brown Acrylic jacket with plain straight from by Gordon King. Scarlet satin trousers from Wallis Shops. Black and white orchid print blouse by John Craig. Diamante comb by Adrien Mann. Musical note brooch and doggy brooch by Corocraft. Other jewellery by Bus Stop.

Scarlet and navy Courtelle plaid bolero jacket and black satin shorts both from Martha Hill. Cherry red and multi coloured cotton voile shirt by Jasper from Stop the Shop. Sheer tights by Sunarama. All jewellery by Bus Stop.

Scarlet and navy Courtelle plaid bolero jacket and black satin shorts both from Martha Hill. Cherry red and multi coloured cotton voile shirt by Jasper from Stop the Shop. Sheer tights by Sunarama. All jewellery by Bus Stop.

Furry tiger printed Courtelle bolero jacket and pale lemon, coffee and white coin spotted cotton satin Oxford bags, both from Martha Hill. Rust and black confetti spotted blouse by John Craig. Cherries and bangles by Adrien Mann.

Furry tiger printed Courtelle bolero jacket and pale lemon, coffee and white coin spotted cotton satin Oxford bags, both from Martha Hill. Rust and black confetti spotted blouse by John Craig. Cherries and bangles by Adrien Mann.

Boxy Borg jacket with scarlet satin lining and satin trousers both by Sujon. Bubble printed silk shirt by Jasper. Cherries and other jewellery by Adrien Mann.

Boxy Borg jacket with scarlet satin lining and satin trousers both by Sujon. Bubble printed silk shirt by Jasper. Cherries and other jewellery by Adrien Mann.

Shaggy Courtelle jacket by Maudie Moon from Che Guevara. Slinky satin trousers from Wallis Shops. Crepe de chine blouse by John Craig. Star brooches by Adrien Mann. Diamante musical note brooch by Corocraft.

Shaggy Courtelle jacket by Maudie Moon from Che Guevara. Slinky satin trousers from Wallis Shops. Crepe de chine blouse by John Craig. Star brooches by Adrien Mann. Diamante musical note brooch by Corocraft.

Square shouldered shaggy jacket by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Slippery sati shorts from Martha Hill. Floppy crepe de chine by John Craig. Butterfly brooch by Adrien Mann. Other jewellery by Bus Stop.

Square shouldered shaggy jacket by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Slippery sati shorts from Martha Hill. Floppy crepe de chine by John Craig. Butterfly brooch by Adrien Mann. Other jewellery by Bus Stop.


Inspirational Editorials: Maybe I was just born liberated

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Stirling Cooper

This photoshoot, featuring the brilliantly named Celestia Sporborg, is another one of my all-time favourites, and one I have put off scanning for a long while because Vanity Fair is actually a rather painful magazine to scan. The gummed spine, with age, does not enjoy being flattened so it requires extra effort to maintain some kind of structural integrity. I couldn’t NOT scan though. I love these images. I love the blurriness, her natural facial expressions, the very domestic backdrop and, of course, the completely mind-blowingly fabulous clothes. I don’t know where to start. That Stirling Cooper above is just so modern. And the Radley playsuit, so very Glam. And the Ossie… Plus Alice Pollock, Foale and Tuffin and a Ritva sweater I sold on Vintage-a-Peel a few years back

It also identifies the shots from Vanity Fair’s Guide to Modern Etiquette, ‘Nice Girls Do’, which I posted about before. To contextualise this shoot, the entire June issue is dedicated to feminism and liberation. Certainly one of the main reasons I love Vanity Fair almost above all other magazines of the period is the fact that they would theme all the contents of an issue, including the fashion spreads.

Celestia Sporborg is now a casting director herself, with over a hundred film credits on IMDB. She married theatre and film producer Robert Fox (brother of James and Edward) in 1975 and they had three children together.

Photographed by Frank Horvat.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, June 1971

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Foale & Tuffin

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Radley

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Ossie Clark

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Ritva

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Alice Pollock


Guy Day: Bring your man up to date

Look at him. God's gift to women.

“Look at him. God’s gift to women.

But before you start chucking him back, remember the average British male is all you’ve got to work on. So get working on him. Tell him you think his barber stinks. Say you’ll scream if he turns up in that seedy safari jacket, with those baggy drainpipes, and bunion-hugging shoes again. Meantime, wear this pale blue hooded coat £45, matching poloneck with red chevron front £21, and matching trousers £28. All by Sonia Rykiel at Browns.”

This is a quite-frankly-amazing little photo story from Vanity Fair, which sees our Cinderfella hero being taken from baggy drainpipes to novelty-print-shirted Hard Rock Cafe God, via the Kensington Church Street branch of Mr Freedom and Leonard of Mayfair.

Photographed by Marc Leonard. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1972

Once he's started growing his hair,

“Once he’s started growing his hair,

…swap the chat for action. Shove him into Mr. Freedom, 2- Kensington Church Street, W8. Strip off his drainpipes and fit him into a pair of red velvet jeans, £7.75. Rip off his jacket and zip him into a red-and-white satin top, £7.95. (It’s got FAR OUT splashed over the shoulders to make sure he gets the message). And while you’re there, buy yourself some pale blue satin trousers, £5.25, a furry acrylic leopard-skin blouse, £9.95, and a black pom-pom beret, £4.”

This is when the sow's ear really turns into a silk purse.

“This is when the sow’s ear really turns into a silk purse.

He’s at Leonard, 6 Upper Grosvenor Street, W1 (even if you had to frog march him there), being tactfully handled by Peter. Wash, cut and blow-dry costs £3.75, beard 5-p. extra – not much when you consider it’s made a mean-moody-magnificent out of that surly yobo of yours.”

Doesn't he look lovely?

“Doesn’t he look lovely?

Sitting in the Hard Rock Cafe in his grey wool barathea Stirling Cooper suit, £28.00 with a waistcoat, and his tiny-man-patterned shirt, £4.90. Both from Way-In, Hans Crescent, SW1. You’re in your Missoni four-piece (orangey battledress top, matching trousers, orange silky blouse and toning striped tank top). £75 from Browns. Thinking what a perfect couple you make. Except that now he’s thinking: ‘Blimey mate, you could do a lot better than her if you tried.'”


Inspirational Editorials: The Gypsy in You

Blouse, waistcoat and skirt from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market. Boots by Sacha.

Blouse, waistcoat and skirt from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market. Boots by Sacha.

Welcome to my fashion brain as it is at the moment, particularly the first and last images. This spread is everything I love about late Sixties/early Seventies style, and more. No change is permanent, I still wake up in a different mood each day, but for the most part I am feeling the need to cover up, tune out and drift around…

“Take the whirl of lace petticoats and the swirl of countrified prints. Add gypsy flowers, baubles, bangles and beads. Find yourself a long, lazy spring afternoon, relax – and think nothing but beautiful…”

Photographed by John Carter. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, March 1970

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Spotted crepe dress and shawl by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group

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Dress by Clobber. Feather cape from Chelsea Antique Market. Printed chiffon dress by Pourelle.

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Dress by Clobber. Slingbacks by Ravel. Shirt by Mexicana. Skirt by Alan Rodin. Shoes by Ravel.

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Dress by Clobber. Shoes by Modaine. Blouse by Stirling Cooper. Skirt by Bernshaw. Boots by Sacha.

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Dress by Marlborough. Feather cape from Chelsea Antique Market.