Mirror, Mirror by Helmut Newton

Mirror Mirror - Helmut Newton - Observer April 69 - 2

Wet-look cire bikini, also in red, with gilt link on bra top and belt of pants, 59s., from main branches of C & A. Paste tiger brooch from the Paris flea market.

Pause for reflection before you buy your swimsuit for this summer. If you’re going to be in the picture, you must get your exposure right : make it the most your shape will take. Because this is a narcissistic year. More girl, less swimsuit. Bikinis will be back with us again this summer — and they’ll be barer than ever. But the fabrics, not to be outshone, are glistening wet-look cires, metallic golds and silvers. And as adornments for the bare body, there is simple animal jewellery —snake bracelets, stalking-tiger brooches, that sort of simple thing.

Hair by Didier at Jean-Louis David, Paris.

Photographed by Helmut Newton.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Observer Magazine, April 1969.

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Silver crochet bikini (also in other colours), £5 15s. 6d.; all cobweb crochet jacket, £5 15s. 6d.; both by Clobber, from Miss Selfridge, Oxford Street, W1 ; Just Looking, Kings Road, SW3; J. T. Parrish, Newcastle; Contrary, Burton Square, Manchester ; Silver cord lacing up jacket, 5d. yd. from John Lewis, Oxford Street, W1. Paste tiger brooch from the Paris flea market.

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Tobacco-brown bikini with fine chain straps and belt, by Tiktiner, £10 15s., from the Summer House at Simpsons, Piccadilly, W1. Gold leather sandals fastening above the ankle, f7 17s. 6d. from Elliotts, 76 New Bond Street, W1, and Kings Road and Knightsbridge branches. Snake brace-lets, 42s., frog ring, 12s. 6d.; by Corocraft, from Marrian-McDonnell, 45 South Molton Street, W1, and 80 Sloane Avenue, SW3; Kendal Milne, Manchester.

Mirror Mirror - Helmut Newton - Observer April 69 - 4

Barely one-piece swimsuit, cut away at the back like a bikini, in sand-coloured towelling, and in other colours too, by Jersea, £4 15s., from Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1 ; Lynette Claire, Kensington High Street, W8; Marshall & Snelgrove, 24-30 New Street, Birmingham; Darling & Co., Bath ; Impact, Salisbury. Gladiator boots, by Mary Quant, 89s. 11d., from Lilley & Skinner.

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White Nylon Helanca and Antron bikini with clear perspex links, by Ruben Torres for Tweka, 5gn., also in lilac, black, pink, turquoise or gold, from D. H. Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; Lady Jane, Carnaby Street, W1 ; Birn & Son, Southend-on-Sea ; Rackhams, Birmingham; Reid & Todd, Glasgow. Summery boots laced up the back by Mary Quant, 89s. 11d., from Lilley & Skinner, 360 Oxford Street, W1. Gilt snake chain around waist, by Corocraft, 2gn., from Way In, Knightsbridge, SW1 ; Kendal Milne, Manchester.


The Grand Affair

Grand affairs call for grand clothes, and provide a welcome opportunity to get out of our peasant blouses and jeans and dress accordingly. The nicest thing about fashion at the moment is that everyone is so confused as to what they should be wearing, that you can wear exactly what you like. We opt for the romantic Garbo fashion, tarted up in the ’71 style, because girls are beginning to look like girls again and, although we sympathise with Women’s Lib., we don’t believe you have to look like a fella to get equal rights!

Possibly the most perfect encapsulation of the Seventies-does-Thirties aesthetic, this homage to Art Deco features some of the most lust-worthy clothes from my favourite designers and boutiques. Including Biba, Ossie Clark and some rare Antony Price for Stirling Cooper!

Photographed in the home of interior designer Graeme Gibson rather than in a studio, the authenticity is heightened by the location and the props, and then finished with the sweet illustrated photoframes.

Photographed by David Tack.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, January 1971.

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Crepe dress by Antony Price for Stirling Cooper. T-strap shoes from Sacha.


The Winter Folk Look

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Left: Embroidered long skirt and embroidered Mexican shirt, both by Souk. John Craig shaggy wool waistcoat. Buckle Under Enterprises balaclava. Right: Long skirt by Souk. Biba gloves. Clobber blouse at Stop the Shop. Jasper kimono from Miss Selfridge.

Warm folkclothes for the part of you that needs freedom and a soft, beautiful way of dressing even through the cold months of winter. These are the long skirt, blouses and shawls to pick up in the markets, the pinnies and shaggy wool coats to take off the peg and lounge around in.

Fashion by Sue Hone. Photographed by Alain Walsh.

Scanned from Petticoat, 11th December 1971.

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Left: Clobber gingham skirt with frill. Calico pinny from Laura Ashley. Knit jacket by Crochetta for Knits and Leathers. Feathers hat. Play balls from Inca. Right: Clobber seersucker skirt with print. John Craig rib polo sweater. Calico pinny at Laura Ashley. Embroidered jacket and Hessian belts at Inca. Herbert Johnson mittens.


Inspirational Editorials: Cheap Thrills

Rich brown satin dress slashed to the waist by Lee Bender for Bus Stop

Rich brown satin dress slashed to the waist by Lee Bender for Bus Stop

An expensive dress bought to wear just for evenings can spoil your party fun. You’ll worry about spilt wine and cigarette burns while you’re engaged in unarmed combat with the crowd. You don’t want to pay a lot for something you and your friends might tire of after just one round of parties. So find yourself a dress that’s memorable like the four shown on these pages, in shiny satin, cire, Tricel, jersey or sparkling Lurex, and if its life is hort, it might break your heart but not your bank. So buy your glitter cheaply, and spend your sixpences on having fun.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from The Observer Magazine, 7th December 1969

Purple tricel jersey shirtdress shimmying to ankle length by Clobber. Smoky grey pearl rope, 10 feet long, from Paris House.

Purple tricel jersey shirtdress shimmying to ankle length by Clobber. Smoky grey pearl rope, 10 feet long, from Paris House.

Lurex jersey dress, memorably low-cut, by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Pale silver crochet hat from Ritva.

Lurex jersey dress, memorably low-cut, by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Pale silver crochet hat from Ritva.


Inspirational Editorials: Knockout Knits

Knockout Knits Roger Stowell Petticoat March 29th 1969 Sweater and skirt by McCaul from Way In, SW1  Ribbed sweater and skirt by Bobby Cousins

Sweater and skirt by McCaul from Way In, SW1. Ribbed sweater with matching skirt by Bobby Cousins.

Featuring iconic model Charlotte Martin (who had romances with Eric Clapton, George Harrison and Jimmy Page). and some of the sweetest knits I’ve ever seen.

Photographed by Roger Stowell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, March 29th 1969

Blue-green knobbly suit by Clobber from Girl. Beige sling back shoes by John Smith. Dusty pink knitted dress with patterned from by Rosalind Yehuda from Vanessa Frye.

Blue-green knobbly suit by Clobber from Girl. Beige sling back shoes by John Smith. Dusty pink knitted dress with patterned from by Rosalind Yehuda from Vanessa Frye.

Knockout Knits Roger Stowell Petticoat March 29th 1969 Angora dress from Mary Farrin Boutique 67 South Molton Street Shoes from Russell and Bromley Two tone angora dress by Jandy Lesser Sandals Ravel

Angora dress from Mary Farrin Boutique, 67 South Molton Street. The 69 shoe from Russell and Bromley. Knee socks by Pex. Two-tone angora dress by Jandy Lesser. Sandals by Ravel.

Knockout Knits Roger Stowell Petticoat March 29th 1969 Cardigan by Things at Morley Skirt with matching waistcoat by John Craig

Cardigan by “Things” at Morley. Skirt from Richards Shops. Ravel sandals. Gored skirt with matching waistcoat by John Craig. Cream shirt from Ivor Wahl. Clarks shoes.

Both dresses by Clobber at Just Looking. Bracelet by Adrien Mann.

Both dresses by Clobber at Just Looking. Bracelet by Adrien Mann.

Apple green knitted waistcoat by Sharcleod, from Girl, Kings Road. Cream shirt and skirt by Ivor Wahl.

Apple green knitted waistcoat by Sharcleod, from Girl, Kings Road. Cream shirt and skirt by Ivor Wahl.

Cardigan with belt by Biba. Check wool skirt from Richard Shops.

Cardigan with belt by Biba. Check wool skirt from Richard Shops.

Caridgan by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Richard Shops skirt. Shirt by Sharcleod.

Cardigan by Alice Pollock at Quorum. Richard Shops skirt. Shirt by Sharcleod.


Inspirational Editorials: The Gypsy in You

Blouse, waistcoat and skirt from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market. Boots by Sacha.

Blouse, waistcoat and skirt from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market. Boots by Sacha.

Welcome to my fashion brain as it is at the moment, particularly the first and last images. This spread is everything I love about late Sixties/early Seventies style, and more. No change is permanent, I still wake up in a different mood each day, but for the most part I am feeling the need to cover up, tune out and drift around…

“Take the whirl of lace petticoats and the swirl of countrified prints. Add gypsy flowers, baubles, bangles and beads. Find yourself a long, lazy spring afternoon, relax – and think nothing but beautiful…”

Photographed by John Carter. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, March 1970

the gypsy in you - john carter - mar 70 -  gingergroup

Spotted crepe dress and shawl by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group

the gypsy in you - john carter - mar 70 -  clobber 2 and pourelle

Dress by Clobber. Feather cape from Chelsea Antique Market. Printed chiffon dress by Pourelle.

the gypsy in you - john carter - mar 70 - mexicana clobber

Dress by Clobber. Slingbacks by Ravel. Shirt by Mexicana. Skirt by Alan Rodin. Shoes by Ravel.

the gypsy in you - john carter - mar 70 -  clobber and stirling cooper

Dress by Clobber. Shoes by Modaine. Blouse by Stirling Cooper. Skirt by Bernshaw. Boots by Sacha.

the gypsy in you - john carter - mar 70 -  marlborough

Dress by Marlborough. Feather cape from Chelsea Antique Market.


Inspirational Editorials: Valentine – Show Stoppers!

The boy's stripey sweater and white Oxford bags are from Tramps. Price is £7.50 from Gary Elliott; Edwardia of Manchester; Paul Smith, Nottingham. the sweater cost £4 and also comes from Paul Smith, as well as the George Best shops, and Quincy of the Kings Road. The girl's outfit is from a selection by Miss Mouse at Peter Robinson.

The boy’s stripey sweater and white Oxford bags are from Tramps. Price is £7.50 from Gary Elliott; Edwardia of Manchester; Paul Smith, Nottingham. the sweater cost £4 and also comes from Paul Smith, as well as the George Best shops, and Quincy of the Kings Road. The girl’s outfit is from a selection by Miss Mouse at Peter Robinson.

Not really Valentine themed (unless you’re planning to spend your day at the circus, which would actually be a pretty good way to spend it…) but scanned from teeny girl magazine Valentine which is largely filled with comic strip stories aimed at hormonal young ladies. I bought it mainly because I recognised the garment on the front cover as a Miss Mouse/Rae Spencer Cullen with distinctive bow print. I’m also a sucker for the circus theme, which seems to be a recurring favourite for late Sixties/early Seventies fashion stylists…

Photographer uncredited. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Valentine, October 1972

Star studded satin blazer and trousers comes in a choice of navy or brown from main branches of Girl and Chelsea Girl.

Star studded satin blazer and trousers comes in a choice of navy or brown from main branches of Girl and Chelsea Girl.

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Yellow satin blazer in various colours from the Separates Dept., Peter Robinson. Blue denim jeans with embroidered flowers sewn on them from the Top Shop at Peter Robinson.

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Sterling Cooper yellow angora sweater at Peter Robinson. Silver satin mini skirt by Clobber. From branches of Snob boutique.

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Snazzy red polka dot skirt is from a selection at branches of Girl. ‘Boob tube’ in red is also from Girl.