Clothes to raise his temperature

Clothes to raise his temperature 7

Playsuit and skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.

An incredible editorial, photographed in and around Nice. I dream of returning to Nice with a wardrobe full of these frocks…

Photographed by Bill King.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, November 1973.

Clothes to raise his temperature 1

Cire raincoat by Andre Ledoux. Peeptoe shoes by Saint Laurent. Sunglasses by Dior.

Clothes to raise his temperature 2

Forties dress by Jeff Banks. Perspex shoes from Russell and Bromley.

Clothes to raise his temperature 3

Dress by Bernshaw. Fur coat by John Bates for Austin Garritt. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.

Clothes to raise his temperature 4

Lurex dress by Mary Quant. Shoes by Saint Laurent.

Clothes to raise his temperature 5

Tie back jumpsuit by Electric Fittings.

Clothes to raise his temperature 6

Silk dress and jacket from The Suliman Shop.

Advertisements

Honey, you’ve gone too far!

honey you've gone too far 1

The gist of this editorial seems to be that only the tinest breasted ladies can wear the Ossies, but I have to respectfully and fundamentally disagree. The Ossie tunic on the cover was, along with some matching trousers, later chosen as The Fashion Museum‘s Dress of the Year 1969.

Blonde model photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Brunette model photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, November 1968.

honey you've gone too far 2

Fluffy frilly blouse by Quorum.

honey you've gone too far 3

Tunic by Ossie Clark.

honey you've gone too far 4

Red chiffon blouse by John Craig.

honey you've gone too far 5

Ruffled black dress by Francis Ford.

honey you've gone too far 6

Low, plungey-neck dress in red satin by James Moncur.

honey you've gone too far 7

Black crepe sleeveless dress by Susan Barry.


The Effect is Shattering

smirnoff - october 74

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from 19 Magazine, October 1974

Combining two of my favourite blog threads, this is yet another in the series of eccentric Smirnoff adverts but is also a clear example of Random Ossies in Adverts.

I am never sure whether Ossie was actually used more in adverts at the time, or if it just feels like it because I am more attuned to Ossie and Celia’s distinctive styles than other designers. Much like in Cabaret, where Liza Minnelli wears a contemporary Ossie piece amongst her other costumes, here the Ossie is a seamless (metaphorically, obviously) inclusion for a Thirties-inspired aesthetic.


Inspirational Images: Sheer Geniuses

ossie bailey vogue july 74 a

“What are Vidal Sassoon, Barbara Daly and Ossie Clark doing in Vogue studios? Vidal did the hair, Barbara the make-up, Ossie designed the dress … Lipstick matched to the flowers in Celia Birtwell’s printed chiffon. Ossie Clark twined his own gold chain and lizard over the shoulder and, snap, David Bailey. Dress to order from Ossie Clark.”

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1974

ossie bailey vogue july 74 b


New listings: Rive Gauche and more

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche

Plenty of new listings at Vintage-a-Peel (also available on Etsy) at the moment, including a superb 1970s Saint Laurent Rive Gauche silk wrap dress. There’s also a Celia Birtwell-print Radley dress, a Zandra Rhodes-print Hildebrand dress, Ossie-esque Janice Wainwright maxi, a rare James Wedge hat and the loveliest chiffon Jean Varon dress. Enjoy!

John Bates for Jean Varon

John Bates for Jean Varon

James Wedge

James Wedge

Hildebrand with print by Zandra Rhodes

Hildebrand with print by Zandra Rhodes

Radley of London with print by Celia Birtwell

Radley of London with print by Celia Birtwell

Jeff Banks

Jeff Banks

Chelsea Girl

Chelsea Girl

Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey

Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey


Inspirational Images: Voila! La pièce de résistance!

Often the best parties are just for two, so make it an evening to remember. Jenny gets star treatment from Martin Potter, a Shakespearian actor whose sensational looks are making him new audiences. His ideal party: "There'd be just the two of us and it would last a month. We'd hide out in a mountain retreat. Heavy snowfalls would cut us completely off from the rest of the world. And if the telephone packed up, even better." Jenny looks the part in a slink of a dress from Polly Peck, £12-35. Heavy gilt choker and perspex bangle from Adrien Mann.

Often the best parties are just for two, so make it an evening to remember. Jenny gets star treatment from Martin Potter, a Shakespearian actor whose sensational looks are making him new audiences. His ideal party: “There’d be just the two of us and it would last a month. We’d hide out in a mountain retreat. Heavy snowfalls would cut us completely off from the rest of the world. And if the telephone packed up, even better.” Jenny looks the part in a slink of a dress from Polly Peck, £12-35. Heavy gilt choker and perspex bangle from Adrien Mann.

Like the telly bank manager in the cupboard, every girl ought to keep one in her wardrobe … a rigout that makes a girl look great, feel high and draws every man to her side, irresistibly. After your winter fur your most useful investment ought to be one such stunning outfit … la piece de resistance. If it gives you that gilt-edged feeling of security that a proper party frock should, you will be glad to wear it again and again … who cares about being seen twice or even one dozen times in the same outfit … so long as you know you look your absolute best. Cosmo asked eight beautiful and busy models to choose and wear the most stunning party clothes around. And then we invited eight dishy men with great personalities to join them and give their reactions. We brought out the Champagne .. . and the pictures tell the rest of the story. Vive la difference!

Fashion by Penny Graham. Photographed by Eva Sereny.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, December 1973

This editorial is like honey to me. The men, the clothes, the men’s clothes…

Patrick Mower, one of TV's best dressed men and more often seen playing tough, hard-hitting Detective Inspector Haggerty in Special Branch, closes in on Caroline. Patrick is a great one for big parties: "I case the room and meet whoever I fancy. Everyone should look great and be in a good mood. If they're not they can go home." Caroline luckily suits all demands in a tie-topped blouse and long skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30.

Patrick Mower, one of TV’s best dressed men and more often seen playing tough, hard-hitting Detective Inspector Haggerty in Special Branch, closes in on Caroline. Patrick is a great one for big parties: “I case the room and meet whoever I fancy. Everyone should look great and be in a good mood. If they’re not they can go home.” Caroline luckily suits all demands in a tie-topped blouse and long skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30.

Put on your most sexy dress—something nice and bare that shows a lot. David Collings, bearded for his part in Ken Russell's Mahler, approves of girls who get "all dolled up". He likes throwing instant parties: "Italian food, loads of wine, lots of talk. I then just let things happen. Surprises are always fun." Jane provides just the right degree of suspense in a slashed to the waist dress by Bernshaw, £19.

Put on your most sexy dress—something nice and bare that shows a lot. David Collings, bearded for his part in Ken Russell’s Mahler, approves of girls who get “all dolled up”. He likes throwing instant parties: “Italian food, loads of wine, lots of talk. I then just let things happen. Surprises are always fun.” Jane provides just the right degree of suspense in a slashed to the waist dress by Bernshaw, £19.

Invited to a dressy dinner party? Wear a simple slither of a little black dress that emphasises all your good points. Michael Petrovitch, a tall, broody looking actor, starring in Wet Stuff with Elliott Gould and Donald Sutherland, loves small parties "Where the food's delicious, the conversation good and the woman beside me a marvellous listener. If she's dark and exotic looking—fantastic." Carole fits the role perfectly in a skimmy voile and Lurex dress by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30. Gilt bangle, ring, from a selection at Adrien Mann.

Invited to a dressy dinner party? Wear a simple slither of a little black dress that emphasises all your good points. Michael Petrovitch, a tall, broody looking actor, starring in Wet Stuff with Elliott Gould and Donald Sutherland, loves small parties “Where the food’s delicious, the conversation good and the woman beside me a marvellous listener. If she’s dark and exotic looking—fantastic.” Carole fits the role perfectly in a skimmy voile and Lurex dress by Ossie Clark for Radley, £30. Gilt bangle, ring, from a selection at Adrien Mann.

If your man is the host, you'd better look great. David Warbeck, actor and model, is a great cook, and likes his hostess to shine. "I do exotic things like pheasants in honey. I serve several courses so dinner lasts about three hours, but I ask people to swap seats . . . then they can really get to know each other." Greta glows in a dress with a cutaway back, Bemshaw, , £13.50; choker and bangle from Adrien Mann.

If your man is the host, you’d better look great. David Warbeck, actor and model, is a great cook, and likes his hostess to shine. “I do exotic things like pheasants in honey. I serve several courses so dinner lasts about three hours, but I ask people to swap seats . . . then they can really get to know each other.” Greta glows in a dress with a cutaway back, Bemshaw, , £13.50; choker and bangle from Adrien Mann.

Be the toast of the party in a dress with a deep neckline and a cutaway back. Gary Bond, lead in Joseph And His Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, is bowled over by blonde Birgitta. "I love girls who laugh at my jokes. If they're all dolled up and smelling delicious I'm their slave. I get very nervous at big parties so when I find a girl I whisk her off to the kitchen. It's the quietest place: we can sit down and get to know each other." Birgitta's dress is by Hilary Floyd, £23. For that extra flirty film star touch, a matching ostrich boa from Mitzi Lorenz, £11.

Be the toast of the party in a dress with a deep neckline and a cutaway back. Gary Bond, lead in Joseph And His Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat, is bowled over by blonde Birgitta. “I love girls who laugh at my jokes. If they’re all dolled up and smelling delicious I’m their slave. I get very nervous at big parties so when I find a girl I whisk her off to the kitchen. It’s the quietest place: we can sit down and get to know each other.” Birgitta’s dress is by Hilary Floyd, £23. For that extra flirty film star touch, a matching ostrich boa from Mitzi Lorenz, £11.

Turn him on. This winter's most glamorous party vest has that 1000 watt gleam. Larrio, the six foot four dancer at the London Contemporary Dance Theatre, is electrified by Jan. "Give me lots of pretty girls, lock the door and let me get at them! I really dig dancing the night away. If I give a party I like it to go on for nights and days." Jan's high-voltage sequin vest is from Biba,£11.45 ; pants, £10, from Gordon King. Earrings from Adrien Mann. Larrio's silk shirt from a selection at Browns.

Turn him on. This winter’s most glamorous party vest has that 1000 watt gleam. Larrio, the six foot four dancer at the London Contemporary Dance Theatre, is electrified by Jan. “Give me lots of pretty girls, lock the door and let me get at them! I really dig dancing the night away. If I give a party I like it to go on for nights and days.” Jan’s high-voltage sequin vest is from Biba,£11.45 ; pants, £10, from Gordon King. Earrings from Adrien Mann. Larrio’s silk shirt from a selection at Browns.

Wear a tinsel jacket—and look like the best-wrapped package in the room. Sam Wright flashes across the stage nightly in Two Gentlemen of Verona but is here brought to a halt by Renate. "Parties are very sensual things to me," says Sam. "I lie around on big cushions listening to Beethoven or sitar music. The night should just drift away. I like my guests to feel free to do whatever they like." Renate's jacket, £13.35, velvet trousers, £14.40, both by Polly Peck. Bangle, earrings, from a selection at Adrien Mann. All men's shirts from Turnbull & Asser ; trousers, velvet suits by John Michael. Make-up by Bonnie for Charles of the Ritz. Party hairstyles by David at Michaeljohn. Christmas trees and decorations from Harrods.

Wear a tinsel jacket—and look like the best-wrapped package in the room. Sam Wright flashes across the stage nightly in Two Gentlemen of Verona but is here brought to a halt by Renate. “Parties are very sensual things to me,” says Sam. “I lie around on big cushions listening to Beethoven or sitar music. The night should just drift away. I like my guests to feel free to do whatever they like.” Renate’s jacket, £13.35, velvet trousers, £14.40, both by Polly Peck. Bangle, earrings, from a selection at Adrien Mann. All men’s shirts from Turnbull & Asser ; trousers, velvet suits by John Michael. Make-up by Bonnie for Charles of the Ritz. Party hairstyles by David at Michaeljohn. Christmas trees and decorations from Harrods.


Inspirational Editorials: Legs Go Under Cover

Left to right: White crepe bolero and trousers by Gina Fratini. White shoes by Kurt Geiger / Satin trousers and matching chiffon top in print by Celia Birtwell, both by Ossie Clark at Quorum. Red leather shoes by Chrystal of Copenhagen. / Black silk organza shirt and trousers in Bianchini's black silk organza flocked with velvet, both from Thea Porter. Cord belt from Piero de Monzi. Wide jewelled belt and double chain and green stone belt from Ken Lane. Black satin shoes by Kirt Geiger. / Black cire trouser suit from The Fulham Road Clothes Shop. Black letaher boots by Thea Chelsea Cobbler. Black and cream silk scarf from Thea Porter

Left to right: White crepe bolero and trousers by Gina Fratini. White shoes by Kurt Geiger / Satin trousers and matching chiffon top in print by Celia Birtwell, both by Ossie Clark at Quorum. Red leather shoes by Chrystal of Copenhagen. / Black silk organza shirt and trousers in Bianchini’s black silk organza flocked with velvet, both from Thea Porter. Cord belt from Piero de Monzi. Wide jewelled belt and double chain and green stone belt from Ken Lane. Black satin shoes by Kirt Geiger. / Black cire trouser suit from The Fulham Road Clothes Shop. Black leather boots by The Chelsea Cobbler. Black and cream silk scarf from Thea Porter

Everyone is tired of hearing that the mini skirt is on the way out.
Nearly as tired as when they heard it was on the way in.
These things in fashion die a very slow death,
but in this case one reason has been the lack of alternative.
Designers made too great a leap with the maxi,
and too indefinite a move with the midi.
After extremely short skirts,
something flapping around mid calves did feel extremely frumpish.
This was tied in with the fact that no boot manufacturers at
that time were making them with high enough heels,
essential with a longer skirt,
and it was very difficult to find feminine unclumpy
shoes which gave enough of a lift.
Now footwear is changing.
Boots are tall and beautifully fitting.
l-ligh-heeled shoes — very high — are pretty,
well proportioned and extremely flattering.
And so one branch of fashion may well be influencing another.
ln the end everything is a matter of proportions.
When skirts went up, heels came down.
The high stilettos we used to hobble around in so painfully,
not really that long ago,
looked far too tarty with hemlines halfway up the thigh and even
worse with trousers, especially tight ones.
Since most women feel their legs to be too short,
and the wearing of the heel as very necessary to a feeling of femininity,
this cancelled out the wearing of trousers for a very large number.
Until a short time ago trousers were being worn by,.
apart from men of course,
women who looked like men — that is, girls with no curves.
Lean hips. Long legs — in flat shoes.
Now for the first time comes the alternative to the mini skirt. Trousers.
That is, until hemlines decide exactly how far they will drop.
As drop they will.
Footwear has helped provide the solution.
It will comfort many to know that the models in the
pictures which follow, averaging 32″-35″ hips, still have
to choose, very carefully, shapes which suit them.
Their legs are long but still need the added inches that a high
heel gives them. Their shapes are slim, but female.
Still sometimes round enough to need the camouflage of a long jacket,
cardigan or tunic. They show that closely fitting
trousers can be sexier and will also make you look fatter.
They show that a small waist is made smaller by a high
cut rather than a hipster style.
Most of the trousers for evening lit well over the hips but flare out
in a very feminine, flattering way.
They are glittery, shiny, and see-through.
Beautiful in fact; better than ever before.

Alas, now that mini skirts are accepted just about everywhere.
we have to warn that trousers, for women that is, aren’t.
An appalling number of top London hotels
still hold fast to outdated rules about them.
Officially they are not allowed in, even to drink,
let alone to dine or to have lunch.
ln the Dorchester they can’t even have tea!
In the Mirabelle: Ofhcially, trousers are not admitted.
The question does not arise much at lunch—tirne
as there are never very many women there.
ln the evening the rule has now been relaxed and you
would be permitted to dine in trousers.
Talk of the Town: Certainly you may wear trousers.
Savoy: They now allow very dressy evening trousers in public rooms
but no daytime trousers at all.
Wearing them to private functions in private rooms
is left to the discretion of the organisers.
Dorchester: You would not be served anything
when wearing a trouser suit.
This applies to all public rooms,
but for banquets and other private functions it is up to the organisers.
Connaught: Officially not allowed at any time in the bar or restaurant,
but it is a decision left to the manager.
Carlton Tower: Trousers are not encouraged in the Rib or
Chelsea Rooms, but they are coming to accept them.
They prefer lunch-time trousers to evening ones.
Westbury: Trousers are not allowed in the bar or restaurant;
this applies to evenings too.
However, this rule, like others, is relaxed from time to time,
eg, when Brigitte Bardot arrives in trousers from the
airport – or Lord Snowdon arrives for dinner in a roll-neck shirt.
Hilton: Officially no trouser suits in the Roof Restaurant.
Unofficially you could get away with it if it’s
a very beautiful catsuit or something similar.
At private functions it depends on the organisers.
Ritz: No rule for the daytime, it just depends on the trousers!
Usually it is permitted to wear trousers
in the evening, but again it depends . . .
Claridge’s: Very strict,
definitely no trouser suits in the public rooms,
though they say you can wear what you like in private!
Crockford’s: They don’t object to them at all.
Coq d’Or: They much prefer to see a lady dressed as a lady.
During the day they prefer skirts
but don’t object to trousers in the evening at all.
White Tower: lf the woman looks elegant and well-dressed she is let in,
otherwise she may be told that the restaurant is full.
Brown’s: No objections at all for either day or evening
in either restaurant or bar provided the wearer looks neat and tidy.
Les Ambassadeurs: Don’t mind couture—cut or evening trouser suits,
but don’t like anything untidy like blue jeans.
Caprice: Quote from the reservations man:
‘l am sure we can have no objections.
women eat here in trousers all the time’

Words by Molly Parkin. Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

The eagle-eyed among you may have spotted the Ossie Clark ensemble which won Dress of the Year in 1969. For an item which won such a prestigious award, it’s always amazed me that I haven’t seen more contemporary images of it. I suppose it’s quite ‘out there’, even by late Sixties standards, but thankfully Molly Parkin was always pretty way out there.

If you can make your way through all the text, it’s a pretty impressive and important insight into the attitudes towards women in trousers in late Sixties Britain. It’s easy to forget how scandalous it could be, even in 1969 – a good four years after we first saw Emma Peel in John Bates’s trouser suit designs in The Avengers, for a woman to wear trousers. People obviously did it, you see enough fashion spreads to know that, but the list of swanky hotels and restaurants who still would refuse entry and service to a woman in trousers is quite extraordinary.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers Bazaar, April 1969.

legs go under cover 2

Left to right: White voile peasant shirt and wide pink, blue and turquoise brocade belt with gilt buckle, both from Thea Porter. Trousers in shell pink silk chiffon with sequins by Gina Fratini / Cyclamen silk shirt with full extravagant sleeves and purple trousers in Warner’s silk damask furnishing fabric, both by Thea Porter/ Brocade belt with gilt buckle by Swordtex from a selection at Mr Fish. / Gipsy bolero in silk brocade and cream organdy trousers, both from Thea Porter. Long orange and yellow scarf wound around waist from Flora Boutique. Chain belt studded with flowers from Browns. More jewelled belts and chains from a selection at Ken Lane.