And now for the amazing… Kansai Yamamoto

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On our left, this page, the satin Samurai appliquéd on a satin polyester T-shirt, £18; with sashiko—pure black cotton,–hip shorts. Black raggedy jacket of peacock feathers, with feather chaps buckled to the legs. Black patent boots on red satin platform soles,£28.
Centre, copper satin coat covered with navy and white cotton discs filled with butterflies, zipped up side, round the armhole to the collar and down the other side. Right, sashiko with a plaid of coloured lines, a violent satin hara kiri committed on the back (switched round here), £75. Black patent boots with turquoise satin platforms, £28. Wooden comb in the hair.

… and his marvellous painted circus of clothes. Twenty-seven years old, from Tokyo, he sells these unique clothes at Boston-1.51 where they hang like brilliant puppets, all the tradition of the Japanese theatre behind them. All clothes at Boston-1 51. Kansai Yamamoto oversees them in traditional kabuki stage manager’s kimono. Make-up, by Sachiko Shibayama, who has studied kabuki make-up for eight years.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

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Above left, scarlet, black and white kimono blouse, wide skirt with dragon teeth hem, big curved belt that says “fireman!” about £95. Black patent boots on scarlet satin, £28. Centre, “Fireman’s boss” sashiko vest with scarlet words, about £30. Sashiko tied leggings. Right, spiral zipped coat flared through six orders of plaid, all crossed again with quilting, in brown, rust, blue, dark red, lined with black cotton, £30.

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Eyes of the Water

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Guy Nicolet, Revlon’s international director: he finds inspiration in a film or a record, a girl he sees in the street or at the theatre, translates the mood into colour and from then on thinks about the bone structure, “the most important feature of a woman’s face”. He has a great sense of fashion, lives a very fashionable life between his gothic Roman house and bishop’s palace in the country, and for him “fashion changes at the same moment for the designer and the visagiste”. His favourite colour is blue, a thousand different blues. Here, opposite, eyes of the water blue reflected from the ceilings of his house on Lake Bracciano. The pastel skin, Perfect Beige Perfect Make-Up dusted with Perfect Powder, from the Ultima II Collection. Eyes shaped with Plum Rose and Orchidaceous Eye Couture ’70 Make-Up, with Sable Plum Lash Make-Up Automatique. New Orange Jade lipstick from the Private Label Collection. Painted leather and bead chokers, by Pablo & Delia at The Shop, Vidal Sassoon, Sloane St. Hair by Oliver at Leonard.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Beauty in Vogue, 1970/71


Pretty Basics

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Ladylike white silk shirtdress by Salvador. Coffee coloured goatskin bag from Harrods. Pure silk lace jersey scarfed turban by Frederick Fox. White sunglasses by Oliver Goldsmith. Ivory heart and ivory and gold cross on chains by Ken Lane.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, February 1975.


Summer in the Age of Aquarius

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Handpainted landscape on silk light as air. By Hilary Floyd, painted by Ross Ball.

Back to the beginning, back to the elements: these dresses are air and water in both of those blues, mingling handwork and waves of sheer silk in dresses of destiny.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1970.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith. Scanned by Miss Peelpants.

Waves of Aquarian blue in tremulous layers. By Zandra Rhodes.


Inspirational Editorials: Greta Scacchi in Midnight Blue

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Further adventures in Midnight Blue…

You may, or may not, remember my earlier posts about Peter Burden’s Midnight Blue shop of 186 Fulham Road. Here is a superb shoot by Clive Arrowsmith of a young Greta Scacchi wearing Midnight Blue clothes from 1978. Looking at Peter’s email again, I can’t help but wonder if the ‘Carol Lee’ he mentions might be the same Carole Lee who designed this exquisite silk top (still available to buy) at Vintage-a-Peel?

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Assisted by Bo.

Model Greta at Models One.

Styled by Catkin & David.

Hair by Leonard.

Shoes by Saxone. All jewellery available from Graff.

All clothes available from Midnight Blue.

Cameraman, Camera and Microphone by courtesy of Thames Television.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Ritz, Issue 18 1978

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Inspirational Images: Cool-Cut Hot Raspberry

Cleverly-cut bra top, just tied in a knot in burning hot pink, with loose low trousers of the ame. By Georgina Linhart, 91/2 gns, at Just Looking.

Cleverly-cut bra top, just tied in a knot in burning hot pink, with loose low trousers of the ame. By Georgina Linhart, 9½ gns, at Just Looking.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1969


Starlet Nights

Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to  the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.

Left to right: Black taffeta dress by Murray Arbeid. Black velvet and rose fascinator by Stephen Jones. Black wool crepe sheath dress with feathers by Sheridan Barnett. Black marabou and ostrich feathered opera coat by Sheridan Barnett, from Roxy 25 Kensington Church Street. Mauve taffeta and velvet stripe dress by Murray Arbeid. Rose hat by Stephen Jones. Crystal drop earrings by Monty Don. Black sun-ray pleated lame and chiffon evening dress by Antony Price, to order from Ebony. Earrings by Andrew Logan.

Upstaging madly in a flurry of feathers, flounces and faux jewels, our chorus line throws caution to the wings and takes centre stage for a thousand and one glamour-puss nights, directed by Hamish Bowles, 19.

A fascinating little spread here, directed by a 19-year-old Hamish Bowles and featuring pieces by established designers like Sheridan Barnett, Murray Arbeid and the Antony Price I’d give my first born to own… Plus up and coming designers like Stephen Jones and Monty Don (yes, that Monty Don…). Plus the make-up was by iconic Sixties model, Maudie James. I’m not such a huge fan of Harpers and Queen in this period, but this spread is such a perfect combination of what had been and what was to come – which makes it a definite cut above the rest.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, August 1983