Decent Exposure

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Tiny cut away bra and pants both by Mary Quant.

See-through dresses and communal changing rooms call for something more flamboyant than chainstore underwear. What’s needed is a bit of…

Illustrated by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1970.

 

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White cotton jersey bra and boxer shorts printed with red stars by Mr Freedom

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Black and white delicately patterned set by Emmanuelle Khanh.

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Pink purple and black print bra and matching pants by Janet Reger. Metal armlet tied by coloured leather thongs from Mr Freedom.

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White lacey bra and white nylon culottes both from Fenwicks.

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Tiny white and grey nylon jersey bra and pants by Margit Brandt. Hand-engraved metal armbands from Mr Freedom.

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Julie Christie in Fortuny

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Apricot pleated tunic with green sleeves and cross-gartered leggings. All around, some of Fortuny’s wealth of hand-blocked velvets.

Fortuny dresses have always been collected by women who are beauties and/or intellectuals: Eleanora Duse, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, The Marchesa Casati Stampa, Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, Marie-Laure de Noailles, Mrs Gloria Cooper Vanderbilt, Anjelica Huston, Monica Vitti, and now Julie Christie, who bought Fortuny’s pink and silver dress with pleated silk side and glass buttons at a recent auction at Christie’s. Here Julie Christie borrows Fortunys from another collector, Mrs Liselotte Hohs Manera, Austrian painter and ceramist, who is married to an Italian lawyer, and one that belong to Eleanora Duse from Vern Lambert’s collection. Castaldi took the photographs in Venice, where Mariano and Henriette Fortuny lived and worked in the Palazzo Pesaro, which is now the Fortuny Museum, and where Julie Christie has been making the film Don’t Look Now, directed by Nicholas Roeg. She’ll next be seen in Uncle Vanya, on Broadway, an extraordinary production to be directed by Mike Nichols with George C. Scott an Nicol Williamson.

Photographed by Castaldi.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1973.

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Antique violet tunic and skirt pleated like a mushroom: inspired by a visit to Delphi, Mariano Fortuny and his wife, Henriette, created the fabric: Isadora Duncan was the first customer.

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Eleanora Duse’s black velvet dress printed in silver with pleated silk side panels.

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Fortuny’s velvet cloak over a pleated dress of terracotta by St Mark’s and the Doge’s Palace where it must hav swept many times before.


Vintage Adverts: Galler, 1971

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Scanned from Jardin des Modes, February 1971


April Flower Evenings

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Primrose silk georgette camisole top and handpainted satin jacket by Bellville-Sassoon.

Delicate flower evening dresses, in silks and chiffons… Beauty far beyond the English flower garden…

Photographed by Toscani. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1975.

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Honey coloured silk dress by John Bates. Sandals by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

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Silk chiffon by Zandra Rhodes. Pink sandals by Rayne.

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Banana silk georgette printed with apricot flowers by Yuki.

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Pale peach silk chiffon with sheer sleeves by Thea Porter.

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Snow orchid chiffon by Sue & Helen. White sandals by Rayne.

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Drift of frilled white silk organza printed with snowdrops by Gina Fratini. Sandals by Rayne.

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Blackberry printed organza by Gina Fratini.

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Cream lace jacket and skirt by Bill Gibb.

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Palest pink silk chiffon by Bill Gibb.


Edina Ronay in Emmerton Lambert

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The style’s the same, but no two shirts are identical – they are made from 1930s remnants: £8 10s from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 King’s Road, London SW3.

Edina Ronay modelling some incredible pieces by Emmerton Lambert, one of the cult labels which emerged from the Chelsea Antique Market in the late Sixties. A classic example of the plundering of the 1930s by designers of the time but unlike those creating garments ‘in the style of’, they were instead using period fabrics to create a new, thrown together, patchwork kind of look. I think these have become my favourite kinds of pieces in recent years: perhaps because there’s a tangible link to both periods when you handle them.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, June 14th 1970.

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Flashy rodeo look: all from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market.


First Essentials

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Lace and satin nightdress, turquoise and white, by Janet Reger. Mules by Midas.

Photographed by Eric Boman at The Savoy.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1977.

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Silk crepe de chine wrap by Richard Hamnett at Tuttabankem White bra and French knickers by Silhouette at Dickins and Jones. Plastic and marabou shoes by Rayne.

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White layered waist slip by Janet Reger. Clear plastic mules by Midas.

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Briefest white bra and white nyloon very briefs, both by Triumph. Clear plastic mules by Midas.


Keep it Dark

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Flower print skirt and top by Sujon. Crochet shawl by Mrs Cresswell. Shoes by Sacha.

Dusky dark dresses for the days when you’d rather take things cooler, in feminine earthy patterns galore, with more than their fair share of low key price tags…

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Petticoat, February 1971.

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Both outfits by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group. Inset below right, both dresses by Dranella.

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Midi dress by Marielle. Rosie Nice satin shawl.

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Liberty print tiered dress by Miss T. Shawl by Mrs Cresswell. Cream boots by Ravel.

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Multiprint dress, left, by Alan Rodin. Belt from Elliott. Sacha boots. Button front Liberty print dress, right, by Miss T. Suede beaded shawl by Elliott. Choker by Buckle Under.

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Long Liberty print dress by Wallis. Bag and choker by Elliotts. Shoes by Anello & Davide.