How about that sleeve? Striped jerseys and white silks wider than they’re long.
Satin skirts, all pictures, by Screaming Mini at Reflection, Kensington High Street.
Photographed at Mr Chow’s Montpelier, Knightsbridge. Chess set with fake fur board at Harrods.
I’m always excited to see Alice Pollock anything, anywhere, but this spread features a blouse I have (except mine is in black) in the second image. There’s a good reason why vintage blouses get snapped up so quickly, and this photoshoot proves it…
Photographed by Barry Lategan. Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1972
Paulene Stone, this month’s cover girl*, is one of the last of the Great Glamour Girls. In the tradition of Katharine Hepburn, Rita Hayworth and Fiona Von Thyssen, she has had lots of exposure and most of the perks. Like her carpet-sweeping ranch mink, walk-in wardrobe, heated swimming pool and her dishy boyfriend, film star Laurence Harvey.
She’s come a long way from Brighton where, at sixteen, she won a model contest. But Paulene’s solid gold glamour takes work—lots of it. Swimming twenty lengths of her heated OUTDOOR swimming pool, for instance. Especially in winter, Paulene says. “Though I’m not your full sporty type . . . I never get my eyelashes wet.”
She tackles cellulite the tough way. with water massage. Four jets on each side, one at the back, this brisk Japanese water treatment really works, says Paulene. “Every dimple on my buttocks went.” Standing five foot nine inches in her Biba boots, American jeans and sweater—the model girl uniform- she weighs only 8 st. 12 lb. And l’ve seen her eat strawberry jam on bread for lunch, followed by a doughnut. Paulene has plenty of incentives, of course. Her boyfriend is one. “I hate to be outdone by Larry,” she says. He takes daily saunas. She skips this because it dried her skin. A built-in softener in the water tank, lashings of Fenjal and regular sessions with Nair depilatory on her legs, keep that milk-maid skin impeccable.
Paulene casts a cold eye on her skin in the clear light of a fluorescent tube, set in a mirror just above eye-level—very revealing. Like most enduring beauties she knows her flaws down to the last missing eyelash. On the current natural kick. most models have thrown away their false eyelashes. Not Paulene. “I can’t NOT wear them, I have none of my own. Larry calls me: ’No Eyes’.” Putting her face together starts with Boots No. 7 foundation in a beige tint, spread very fine with a sponge. For pictures she adds a fluff of Germaine Monteil sheer powder which doesn’t add any colour. Estée Lauder’s brick coloured brush-on powder hollows her cheeks. She rings her eyes with Mary Ouant’s dark blue crayon, then adds Cardinelli eyelashes. She plucks her pale eyebrows to a fine arc. then shadows them with Almay’s brown brush-on shadow. Her red hair is streaked twice a year and she prefers to wash it, in herbal shampoo, and set it herself. Her lipstick and nail varnish are currently red.
“Not blood-red, Larry hates obvious red lips. It’s idiotic to irritate a man with your make-up or clothes; the whole point is to attract the opposite sex, not repel them.” says Paulene. Like most men, her fella doesn’t notice clothes unless he doesn’t like them. She remembers when they first met he asked why she didn’t own a little black dress. “He even bought me pearls. That was when l wore white mini kilts and Courreges boots!”
Paulene’s been through several styles from the all-white bit, through Chanel suits to hippy gear, and now she’s back to classics. Her walk-in wardrobe holds clothes by the rackful and several furs. A Herbert Johnson hat box holds two swash-buckling hats with sweeping brims and pheasant feathers and the place reeks lushly of Calandre, Paco Rabanne’s scent. The bathroom wall is lined with nicely narcissistic pictures of Paulene with Larry, plus prints and paintings of leopards, a fox, a Thai tiger in brass and other beautiful felines. Paulene, a well-groomed and well-loved feline herself says: “I’m saving up for my first face lift now. I shall not grow old gracefully.”
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, April 1972.
*Curiously, she isn’t actually the cover model for the issue this appeared in!
Of course Larry and Paulene get their own cover a few issues down the line…
Alice Pollock is twenty-seven. She and Ossie Clark are regarded as one of the most inspired pairs of designers in England. Their Quorum range can uually be counted on for style, originality and incredible appeal. Yet it wasn’t such a long time ago that they’d never even heard of each other and she had never even dreamed about designing clothes.
“Before Quorum I’d done lots of things but I suppose could mainly be called a film assistant. I worked with Tony Richardson and Orson Welles. I had this ambition to own my own company, so I formed one to make chairs. They weren’t very successful so I started designing clothes. I suppose they seemed more lucrative.
“That was when I got my first break. I’ve had several. All of them were terribly important. I couldn’t have done at all well without them. But the first break was getting the first range of clothes photographed by Queen. There were ten garments. It was marvellous publicity. It helped us get established and was tremendous. The next great break was meeting Ossie.
“A friend of a friend suggested we meet one day. He just walked through the door, a quiet, dark little man, nothing like the Ossie Clark we know today. I thought he was too much. We were like twins. That was incredible. But for ages we were living hand to mouth. Though Quorum had a good reputation we weren’t making it financially. But we were really lucky. Last year Ossie made a deal with Radley Fashions who took us over. that was another break. Things have been marvellous since then.”
Scanned from Petticoat, February 1970
Scanned from Harpers and Queen, June 1973. Photographs by James Wedge.
Always happy to bring you another ‘lost’ shoot by the late, great Brian Duffy. Since Duffy destroyed his own archive, we are left to piece together a career from what was published in magazines or retained in other people’s archives. I try to scan and share whenever I can… I covet both Alice Pollock pieces in this spread, and love the man’s style. Definitely how all men should dress, always.
Photographed by Duffy. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry. Modelled by Greta Norris and Cyril Hartman.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, July 1972.
As an aside, apologies for sporadic blogging at the moment. There are a few changes afoot and it is distracting me a little from my usual magazine scouring and scanning. I will tell you when everything, hopefully, falls into place in the next few weeks.
So many egos, so little space… I’m placing bets that Quant and Bates didn’t speak to each other for the duration. But it’s also nice to see Bates sitting with his friend Bill Gibb, and now I like to think that Alice Pollock and Thea Porter must have been quite pally as well.
There’s a marvellously romantic feeling about the Pre-Raphaelite look. It starts with your hair…soft, natural, framing your face in a ripple of tiny waves. It touches your skin…pale, delicate, un-made-up looking. It colours your clothes…crepe, chiffons and satins in rich hues. Start wearing this great, romantic look today – who knows, he might just start being very romantic to you!
Scanned from Vanity Fair, May 1970. Photographed by John Kelly at Wightwick Manor.
*This is a misattribution, the dress is actually an Ossie.
So instead of getting into a frenzy of bikinis I’ve been able to concentrate on the way to look this autumn. Black and rather Dietrich. Masses of sequins; velvet, chiffon, moiré. And shiny, slinky ciré, like satin come out from under a shower. To wear this black sheer tights; to spark up with silver, jet and diamond.
Phew! That was a long break. I’ve finally got the first batch of Autumn/Winter clothes up over at Vintage-a-Peel, and there are some KILLER items for you. I’m very excited to be offering Ossie Clark, Alice Pollock, Aristos, Biba, Terry de Havilland, The Chelsea Cobbler, Janice Wainwright and two incredible hats by Edward Mann (and those are only the big names!). Plenty more to come, so stay tuned and, meanwhile, enjoy!!
|Aristos of Carnaby Street|
|The Chelsea Cobbler|
|Pussy Cat by Carla Jane|
|Terry de Havilland|
|A Downs Model|
|Ossie Clark for Radley|
|Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey|